THE ALTO ADIGE-The Alto Adige is one of the leading Italian wine Regions by all the three classical standards: quality, quantity and variety. We reconfirmed as much during our recent tastings and visits. . . so high, in fact, are the prevailing levels that we decided to concentrate on some small criticisms so as not to sound like a folder of the local tourist office. But criticism doesneurot come easily up here. Gewurztraminer are delicious whites, among the countryeuros very best aromatic varieties; the Lagrein marry near-perfection to a solid territorial identity to satisfy the demand for soft and fruity wines; and even the so-called minor sorts, among them Veltriner, Sylvaner and the jucy Moscato Rosa, greatly please nose and palate. That said, our function as impartial reviewers imposes the observation that more could be done to give the Regioneuros wines a stronger character. Nearly all the products testify to techniques by now so well mastered that we found it all but impossible to find a defective bottle, yet this very precision isneurot always accompanied by a well-defined personalitiy weeurod quite like to see wines technically perhaps a little less perfect and more adventuresome in aroma and taste . . . a friendly suggestion to Alto Adigeeuros many makers of wines of outstanding merit.