We were among the first to clap our palms half to blisters over the Aglianico del Vulture as a prime protagonist of strongly local, territorial vintages, but after the most recent rounds of tasting weeurore inclined to bridle our enthusiasm with somewhat perplexed caution. Many upcoming producers have by now arrived and their choices of styles have firmed up into more clearly defined characters. This has established that Aglianico grapes grown far up in the hills on volcanic terrain and under conditions of great temperature swings can attain excellence, not only here in the Vulture but in the Irpinian Taurasi and in the Casertan Roccamonfina. Established, too, is the high rate of very good quality within what is still a very modest production of typically rather muscular, concentrated, initially quite demonstrative reds, all alas rather alike. An exception is the excellent Paternoster, well calibrated and aware of modern style but loyal to its territorial identity. In our view, the considerable merits of Aglianico del Vulture oughtneurot to be determined merely by the somewhat sterile trials of extractiveness but more by the appreciation of its measured expressiveness and many overtones. These potentially so very rewarding grapes promise imposing reds whenever, instead of being channelled into sophisticated modern technologies, they are allowed to develop in terms of their own earthy, wild nature. During the past few years, Donato DeuroAngelo has been setting an example along those lines that weeuroll be watching closely.From the Espresso Wine Guide to Italian Wines 2009