We admit it: we find it difficult to come up with convincing reading matter about the latest tribulations of Latiumeuros wine life without appearing unduly critical. Weeurove been flagellated for having dared to write what everyone knows anyway euroeuro namely, that the Region is quite a bit behind in raising overall quality. It has been objected that Falesco and Casale del Giglio doneurot make second-class wines. Of course not euroeuro nor do Colle Picchioni, SanteuroAndrea, Villa Simone, DeuroAmico, Fontana Candida, Mottura and not a few others. And yet, Latiumeuros output still consists for the most part of unoriginal wines with little character, only a handful of them capable of capitalising on their own distinct territorial peculiarities. Our recent samplings brought to light a promising Giacch (Cento Corvi), a few good Cesanesi (Ciolli, Perinelli, Terenzi), a classical traditional Red of Velletri (Co.Pro.Vi) that goes down smoothly and quickly, and several precious Sweets (Castel deeuro Paolis) that seem unusual from the earth of Cannellino. Nevertheless, these pleasant surprises euroeuro we enjoy passing them on to the consumer euroeuro are offset by the ineluctable reality that hunting down a truly worthy Frascati in the oenoteques or finding one on a restaurant list can be a tiresome, even a discouraging business. Or a Colli Lanuvini or an Est! Est!! Est!!! euroeuro are you ready to risk it? For years now the plethora of denominations around the Castelli Romani have languished in a state that we have euphemistically labelled as eurosomnolenteuro, but it is, truth to tell, bogged down and stagnant . . . with a few sacrosanct exceptions that prove the rule. Once again, signals of some modest tremors of change seem to be coming from the north-east (from the Tiberina and its interesting generational change-over) and the south-east (Piglio and all the Cesanese lands of choice). Still, for the nonce weeuroll limit ourselves to listing the still far too few producers capable of competing, proudly and with dignity, with the quality standards now being consolidated throughout Wineland Italy. We trust that soon we may report on a Latian revival with many far-reaching quality reforms.Text from the Espresso Guide to Italian Wines 2007. Author and Co-Author Ernesto Gentili and Fabio Rizzari. Editor of English version Filippo Bartolotta