Sicilian wine, for millennia a bearing column of the insular economy, is currently experiencing yet another phase of revival on, as it were, two fronts: one by way of buzz and fashion, the other of serious oenology reaching for the stars. The prior, ever a fickle beast, may bring swift but ephaemeral, even dangerous flows of money into the house (the fates of quite a few once trendy but now fading products are already threatening to dim the lustre of many Sicilian wines), whilst the latter charts the way to competition and enduring success in national and international marketplaces. Alas, not all Sicilian producers seem to be aware of this. Whilst the north-west continues to churn out concentrated, impersonal and highly alcoholic wines along the lines of a now all but obsolete eurointernational modeleuro (the only important exception being the DOC Marsala), around Mt. Etna and near Pachino a well-planned, rational programme is preparing the land for a return to a strong territorial identity. The case of the Nero deuroAvola may serve as an example, for this wine, derived from the homonymous grape, is capable of attaining many different controlled styles euroeuro even though at this stage of the game, tasting comes down to whether it is an authentic and pure Nero deuroAvola or one constructed along conventional lines of colour, fruitiness and oak, at the loss of its own original traits. This is true whether the samples come from along the sea coast or from high inland hills, from old vineyards strung among trees or recent ones laid out with geometric perfection. In any event, the Sicilian cup is as half full as it is half empty. It would be inappropriate and unjust to dismiss the renewal movement as a mere canny marketing manoeuvre. There exists a less visible oenoculture that is intent on bringing out the best in the insular territorial identities; a medium-to-long-term investment, this school declines advice from avant-garde and market-orientated councillors. We feel that both Etnaeuros and Pachinoeuros vineyards stand at the centre of great promises and daring undertakings. They offer many themes for stimulating and useful debate and discussion.