Enlivened by competition among small vintners and large collectives, Trentino production is becoming more reliable and estimable with every season. In spite of the absence of any summit-quality labels (there are likely to be a few soon), lesser but extremely good and enjoyable wines abound, nearly all at favourable quality/price ratios, nor are profiles and variety lacking. Bear in mind Teroldego Rotaliano, from right around Trento, strongly fruity; Elisabetta Foradorieuros Granato; and the bordolese (Bordeaux-like?) reds, not limited to descendants of the illustrious San Leonardo (look forward to a new vintage of this in 2007) but available under other good-quality names. Aromatic and intriguing whites come from secondary zones like the Colline Avisiane and the Valle di Cembra remember here the famous Trento, a Metodo Classico of great character and the only Italian alternative to the Franciacorta. The Valle dei Laghi gives us a sweet and elegant Vino Santo, still a rather marginal source of pleasure because its producers are few and far between.FROM ESPRESSO "WINE GUIDE TO ITALIAN WINES"