"Unlike other Italian Regions, Umbria has few cards to play in the game of local grapes that yield fashionable wines. Save for two noteworthy exceptions Sagrantino, derived from grapes that make strong, structured wines, and those from the less well known Grechetto whites the Umbrian ampelographic base doesneurot account for hardly more than a whisper outside its Regional borders. Of course the conventional concept of terroir isneurot always an adequate criterion for evaluating the quality of wines that do in fact reflect local individuality, and Umbrian production does in fact offer some very good bottles, albeit within the limits of grapes like Merlot, Cabernet and Chardonnay, by now perhaps not very exciting for selective palates. On the whole, technology is well advanced, and one would have to be quite unfortunate to be served or sold any wine thateuros less than correct and acceptable. The most productive area lies to the north-east and includes the Montefalco district, home to wines that satisfy many demanding palates. Anno 2002 products were less felicitous than the excellent and sometimes monumental 2001s. The 2004s seem to be developing wonderfully in the bottle, especially several full and fruity Montefalco reds. As to profoundly historical Orvieto and its hinterland, production there is technically on a good level but wines of any great merit or originality are unusual. The situation around Torgiano is similar and stable."Text from the Espresso Guide to Italian Wines 2007. Author and Co-Author Ernesto Gentili and Fabio Rizzari. Editor of English version Filippo Bartolotta