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The Tuscan countryside is white at the moment, and we have been forced to close the office for a few days since we are all well and truly snowed in.

This weekend temperatures are set to drop to -15 degrees. Brrrr. That is cold!

Schools are cancelled today, and snow is predicted again in Florence tonight.  The weather contrasts sharply with last weeks glorious warm sunshine, now it feels like winter has arrived all at once. The snow that should have arrived around December has caught up with us in one big, heavy dump.

The wind chill right now is the hardest to swallow, and the main reason why the villages are not full of gleeful children throwing snowballs. Its cold outside, and at least out near my house in Volterra – people are staying inside where its warm.

Just to give you an idea of how much snow were talking about…

So on days like this, recipes like the following are downright necessary. Since none of us can get to the supermarket, La Cucina Povera is proving extremelly effective.

If you have left over Capsicums in the fridge like me, this is a lovely hearty option:

Peperonata

Ingredients for 4 people:

1 red pepper, 1 yellow pepper, 1 green pepper (weight around 700-800 grams)

700 grams mature tomatoes

4 red onions

extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper

1 Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan on medium high heat. When the oil is almost smoking, add the onions (sliced finely). Sprinkle with a little salt and sauté for 2-3 minutes, until the onions just begin to color.

2 Wash the peppers. Add the peppers and stir well to combine with the onions. Sauté for 4-5 minutes, stirring often. The peppers should be al dente—cooked, but with a little crunch left in them.

3 Add the diced tomatoes, and cook just one minute further. Season to taste.

4 Turn off the heat. Grind some black pepper over everything.  Can be eaten hot or cold.

Onion and Barley Soup

This is a delicious Italian winter favorite, great for cold nights around a warm fire!

1.5 liters of vegetable stock

150 grams Pearl barley

4 red onions

2 cloves of garlic

One potato

One laurel leaf

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Black pepper

Parmigiano reggiano

For the vegetable stock:

Boil 1.5 liters of water with a carrot, a stick of celery, a zucchini, a tomato, a handful of beans and a handful of spinach or silver beet. Boil together  until the tastes and smells have formed a tasty broth which can then be filtered into stock.

Preparation:

Slice the onion and cook with plenty of oil along with garlic and laurel leaf. When the onion begins to color add the potato chopped in small cubes. Mix and leave over a low flame for a few minutes, then add the broth adding some black pepper and salt. Bring to boil. Add the barley(pre rinsed) and leave to boil until ready (around 30 mins). Serve with grated parmesan cheese and grated black pepper.


I am very tired, I must confess!

I just got back from the THE YEAR OF THE DRAGON WINE DINNER CHINESE NEW YEAR BANQUET AT ORIENTAL GARDEN with the oldest wine shop in America: Acker Merrall & Condit. I’ll report on this later as I had 16 amazing wines that are worth mentioning.

I am tired though because I had a very long week-end supporting the cause of Martha’s Table and D.C. Central Kithchen.

The fact sheet wants Alice Waters, Joan Nathan and José Andres to be the chefs who created Sips&Sups.

Alice Waters, Joan Nathan and Jan Burhman

Jan Burhman, Joan Nathan and Alice Waters

My three muses in D.C.:

Jan came all tha way from Martha’s vineyard and she is the reason why I am here,

Joan invented everything,

Alice leads the way!

-over 350 people for the Sips at the Newseum

-roughly 400 people for the Suppers with 20 homes and 40 chefs

-$250.000 raised!!!

Everything else is people getting together to share ideas about how to help those in need, how to experience better nutrition and how to be more useful and nicer to one another and…to eat and drink well.

This is my third year in a row and now I feel home. Indeed, I have been fed breakfasts, lunches and dinners just like home! I have seen hundreds of people coming to help in any way or form and then sharing a meal together: on the way back to New York I travelled with Liz and Jeffrey, two of the volunteers that silently made all this happen.

The Long Week End in Pictures:

First came the unveiling of Alice Waters portrait at the National Portrait Gallery,

The Sips at the Newseum

Bendetta VItali and Alice Waters

Bendetta VItali and Alice Waters

Two weeks ago I asked Benedetta over the phone: would you like to come to D.C. to cook with me?

I didn’t even finish the question and she was already at the airport! I like how Benedetta answers to proposal so enthusiastically!

Joan Nathan

Joan Nathan

The Dinners

Nick Stefanelli & Alon Shaya

Nick Stefanelli & Alon Shaya

Barton Seaver

Barton Seaver

The Wines

The Market Walk

Jan Buhrman and the local grower

Jan Buhrman and the local grower

Me at 1500 fm Radio Show

Me at 1500 fm Radio Show

Caterina de’ Medici was born in Florence in 1519 and was the last of the principal Medici family. When she was just 14 years old she married Prince Enrico d’Orleans and she moved to France, bringing with her all her cooking staff who were already helping Caterina to create wonderful dishes in Tuscany.

What is so fascinating about Caterina de’ Medici is that her power in France grew to such a level that she was held in greater esteem than even her husband when she became Queen.
As a wonderful chef, she took traditional Tuscan recipes to what was considered the home of fine cuisine, all of which were greatly received. 
For example, the recipe for Bèchamel sauce that is thought by many to be of French origin, was actually introduced to France by Caterina, it’s original name being “Salsa Colla”.
There are many other Tuscan dishes which have slightly changed their Italian names to French ones.
A famous renaissance recipe still linked to Caterina’s name is “Anitra all’Arancio“.

Duck cooked with Orange“

Clean a young duck and seperate the liver. Fill the duck with rosemary, sage and laurel leaves, and then tie the duck’s body to preserve it’s shape while it is cooking. Season with salt and pepper and a splash of cognac.

In a large saucepan add a knob of butter, sliced bacon, chopped onion and fry slowly. Add the liver to the saucepan and grind while it is cooking.

Then add the duck to the saucepan and leave it cooking until the sauce is absorbed, add some fresh orange juice and leave it cooking for 20 minutes. Then add two cups of stock . The duck has to cook on a medium heat for about two hours. When the meat has become soft, sieve the sauce (aromatic leaves, etc.) and re-fill the duck. Add two oranges, cut into slices, and leave them cooking with the duck for five minutes, just enough time for it to acquire the flavour.

Put the duck on a tray and cover it with orange slices. Finally, dress it with the remaining sauce.



The passing of another great artist of Italian wine
by Filippo Bartolotta

Just last night, I found out via a midnight text message from my good friend and passionate wine collector Miriam, that Giuseppe Quintarelli has passed away.

She must have read the news on DoBianchi who reported the sad passing  from Franco Ziliani.

The brilliant artist of Amarone died yesterday, leaving behind a climate of productivity that contrasts with the world he once knew.

His work was a true source of inspiration for producers both young and old of Amarone, Valpolicella and Recioto.

After Giulio Gambelli we have lost another mighty figure of Italian enology.

Again we have lost an extraordinary talent, a humble and reserved man, that has contributed so much to the image of great Italian wines in the world.

It is no coincidence that the first message of his passing came from the United States; just one of many collectors who had visited the home of Quintarelli, met the family in person and drank his superb wines.

In his studio /cellar, with the wooden table lit by a faint yellow light -it was like entering a parallel universe, where time seemed to stop. The aroma of grapes drying and the flavor of those dense wines seemed to mix with the air, leaving it softer and somehow  sweeter.

The labels were colored the same ochre yellow as the paper placemat of a local tavern – or a soft sage green or the off white of a school notebook. All had been handwritten by his daughters and contrasting beautifully with the precious liquid contained within that often reached stratospheric prices.

These bottles were considered more than simply wine; they were precious works of art.

Too often, wine is described as a work of art. But in the case of Giuseppe Quintarelli this parallel was the justification behind his work, not only for

results that were produced, but also the spirit and the courage required to create such wines .

Quintarelli produced art, he quoted this himself. And among experts and novices; who had the good fortune to taste his best works is aware that rarely in life, will one encounter wines like his.

I extend my deepest sympathies and heartfelt condolences to his wife, daughters and wonderful grandchildren.

Gnudi

We often cook this delicious treat with leftover Ravioli filling, but here is a recipe for Gnudi (literally nude pasta) without  the spinach.

These are a delicious and unique dish, and perfect for a winters evening with burnt butter and sage leaves fresh from the garden.

Enjoy!

Gnudi Recipe

1 cup fresh ricotta cheese

1 cup grated Parmesan, plus more for finishing the pasta

2 eggs plus 1 egg yolk

1 teaspoon grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives (optional)

1/2 cup all purpose flour

4 cups semolina flour

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

10-12 sage leaves

Combine the first 5 ingredients in a bowl and whisk vigorously.

Fold in the 1/2 cup of flour until it is combined with the ricotta mixture, add more flour if needed so that the mixture isn’t too sticky to roll into 1-inch balls.

Allow the gnudi to come to room temperature, and in the meantime prepare the butter and bring a pot of salted water to boil.

Using floured hands, roll the ricotta mixture into balls and place in a bowl or dish that has 1/4 inch of the semolina sprinkled on the bottom. Arrange the balls so that they are not touching each other or the sides. When you have a layer, cover the balls completely with flour and begin another layer. Finish by completely burying the ricotta balls and transfer to the fridge. Leave overnight.

Carefully unearth the gnudi and place on a rimmed baking sheet. The flour that remains can be sifted back into a container to use in the future.

In a skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Watch it carefully, and when the butter solids begin to brown and the butter is foamy (above), add the sage leaves. Just a few moments longer on the heat and the butter should turn a caramel brown color.

Pop the gnudi into to a pot of salted boiling water and cook until they float, about 1 minute.

Keep in mind that these do not require long to cook, and the pasta coating can turn tough if they are in the water too long.

Remove them carefully to drain, and serve with the butter and sage leaves.

Grate Parmesan over them, if desired.

The restaurant La Torre del Saracino is located in a rustic-elegant house along the Sorrento peninsula facing the gulf of Naples.
Gennaro Esposito, one of the most respected figures on the coast. Along with his talented kicthen, he monopolized the public attention and gastronomic scene since opening La Torre in 1991.
Esposito has earned this disntiction, and has received high praise throughout Italy and internationally with consistent top ratings in the Espresso guide book, Gambero Rosso and Michelin guides.
Recently the whole operation has undergone a huge reformation. La Torre del Sacacino, located in a 1300 year old Saracean watchtower is now more accommodating than ever.
The intimate dining room of minimalist design has kept thee ambience elegant yet welcoming. Outside, the terrace is perfect for balmy summer evenings and looks out over the marina of Seiano to the impressive mount Vesuvius in the distance.
The lounge is built into the tower. The mix of antique and modern is well balanced here, with ancient stone walls providing a rustic canvas to the modern sound system, designer couches, art and furnishings. This is the place to start your dining experience, a place to enjoy an aperitif before dinner, a place soak up the music and ambience of Vico Equense.
The service here is excellent. Waiters in white coats are attentive and importantly, in sync with the kitchen. Luciano Esposito (who formerly worked on Donald Trumps super-yacht) is the restaurant manager and sommelier. His competence and passion are evident in the impressive wine cellar located in the lower part of the tower which patrons may also visit.
The dishes on the menu are a mix of classical and modern cuisine. The two sampling menus (100 to 120 euro) are dedicated to Gennaro’s historic collaborators Ciro and Salvatore, who have been with Eposito since 1991.

Sampling Menu’s

Ciro’s Menu

Marinated salt cod, “spugnilli” sauce, spring onions and burnt wheat biscuit

Crushed potatoes, cuttlefish black, tomate paste and green peppers

Small paccheri with fried anchovies and sweet & sour onions

Turbot and clams

Cheese selection

Walking in Vico
(Lemon, oil and walnuts)

€ 100,00

Salvatores Menu

Fish on the Rocks

Eel lacquered with figs syrup, blown wheat, candied orange and citrus spicy sauce

“Minestra maritata” with fish

Risotto with “cymosa italica”, lemon and “burrata” with marinated red mullet

Pasta with cauliflowers, oysters and pecorino

Grilled monkfish with foie gras and bitter herbs salad

Rabbit, rosemary honey sweet & sour tomatoes sauce

“Ricotta” mille-feuille with pear soup

€ 120,00

La Torre Del Saracino

Via Torretta, 9

Loc. Marina d’Aequa

80069 Vico Equense

Italy

Phone: +39 081 802 85 55

www.torredelsaracino.it

Goodbye Giulio Gambelli.

By Filippo Bartolotta

Yesterday afternoon the greatest Master of Sangiovese passed away. He was one of the least known, least payed and least understood wine makers in the world. And yet he was one of the greatest. Behind the scenes of a bunch of the purest, most elegant and long living Sangiovese ever.

A true master taster who was able to listen to the wines right from the first day of harvest.

His wines were so uncompromising that during the years of the big block busters even the docg tasting panels weren’t able to recognize these wines as Sangiovese: for them his Reds were too thin!

Today, in a series of reverse actions towards elegance and subtleness, more and more wineries in Tuscany are following his train of thoughts.

Among his masterpieces in Chianti Classico: Bibbiano; Ormanni, Montevertine and San Donatino. In Montalcino: Case Basse; Il Colle and Poggio di Sotto.

I know that among the discerning wine collectors there’s at least two or three labels that are for sure part of their cellar.  And these bottles managed to be part of these collections not just as the odd Italian bottles that one must have, but as some of the most precious wines of their selection.

As a matter of fact, in these awesome “cantinas”, I have personally opened several times two of the delicious Sangioveses Giulio -aka “Bicchierino”- helped making.

Gianfranco Soldera-Case Basse,  Brunello di Montalcino

Martino Manetti-Montevertine, Pergole Torte

Gianfranco Soldera and Giovanni Manetti (today, it’s his son Martino) have always had a very clear idea of the kind of wine they wanted to make, but Gambelli helped them making sure their ultimate idea was actually becoming true.

The relationship between this Maste Taster and these two wineries has been, without any doubts, not just the longest and most consistent, but  also the most poetic in terms of results in the bottle. As a result, over forty years of collaboration Soldera and Manetti have been producing not just some of the purest and most expressive Sangiovese ever, but also some of the greatest wines aver made.

If you have never come across this labels, you must try at least an old and a new vintage of these two wine to understand what heights of deliciousness we are talking about.

Try Pergole Torte 1990 and Pergole Torte 2004 and Case Basse 1985 and Case Basse 2004.

But do not worry if you can’t find these specific vintages. If this labels were produced in any given year it means they were worthwhile the effort!

Bicchierino passed away at the age of 86 without leaving any pupil that can properly be called so. There isn’t in other word a person that has taken the philosophical inheritance to be able to feel Sangiovese and “listen to it” like he did. His memory though is going to be lingering very long, not only thanks to the great vintages he helped making, but also thanks to Gianfranco Soldera and Martino Manetti who I believe are the true keepers of Bicchierino’ “secrets of Sangiovese”.

So long, farewell.

By Jessica

New Years Eve is so often overrated, that for the past few years my husband and I have decided to keep it casual. Last year we spent the evening watching fireworks on a balmy summer night in Sydney Australia. This year we had a delightful international dinner with a lovely diverse group of people in an old medieval house located near Sovicille in the Tuscan countryside.

Like many other parts of Europe, we were blessed with unseasonably warm weather this New Years. The evening was clear and starry, and after a delicious meal with local organic wines, we built a big bonfire outside, and let off fireworks. All of the neighbors from the other farmhouses came out to celebrate and pop bottles of champagne together, and a few stragglers ended up coming back inside after the fire died down to enjoy a few more glasses of wine, some games, and finally bed wherever we dropped in the early hours of the morning.

New Years day we all woke up a little sore from the festivities the night before. The children were all a bit grouchy after a late night, but the sun was shining and we couldn’t resist the beautiful countryside for long. After a strong coffee, we all packed into two car, kids and dogs in tow, and headed to the nearby Villa Cetinale for a New Years day stroll.

I love the area around Sovicille. Its packed full of exciting medieval and renaissance buildings, old stone walls, mysterious forests, wild game and unique landscapes. To get to many of the old borgos (which are still well populated in most cases) requires up to 25 minutes of unpaved white roads (not for the sports cars out here). We have an old fiat punto, which seem to have built to drive along these bumpy roads.

Villa Cetinale is no exception, but the white roads really only add to its old beauty. Stone walls on either side of the road are lined with moss, behind them is a thick slightly eery mediterranean forest – rich and green even in the middle of winter. The gardens around the Villa are mostly off limits unless you organize a tour in advance, this is due to tourists essentially ‘taking over the place’ in the past. Ranieri, our friend who grew up around these gardens, explained that even when the owners attempted to keep the gardens open by day (but closed at night) people would hide in the grounds until the guard had closed up, and destroy the beautiful gardens after nightfall drinking, camping, littering etc. Eventually someone was injured on the old 300 year steps – and the gardens were closed to the public once and for all. Such a shame… but you can still enjoy a nice walk around the grounds, into the courtyard etc, and the owners are happy as long as you show respect.

Villa Cetinale was built on the remains of an old Etruscan village. It was (and continues to be) appreciated as one of the most admired gardens in Italy.

Interestingly The Palio of Siena was raced here seven times (when due to political reasons it could not be held in Siena itself). One of my favorite parts of the garden is the ‘Scala Santa’ 300 old stone steps that end at a huge hermitage that was once inhabited by monks. There is a straight line that runs down from this hermitage through the forest and down past the villa  to a magnificent big statue of Hercules.

The gardens really have to be seen to be believed, filled with flowers, interesting trees and wild woods – they are not only beautiful but also rich with history.

For me, wandering along with Ranieri and his lovely extended family was as good as taking a guided  tour – we heard all the local gossip about the current owners mixed with tales of old lords, bandits, Palio events and more.

We finished the morning with a picnic on the stairs of a lovely little fresco. It was an excellent start to the New Year.

  • by Filippo Bartolotta 22.12.2011 featured in Italian here: http://www.gazzettagastronomica.it/2011/il-cappone-in-galantina-la-ricetta/

After assisting Benedetta Vitali of the famous Florentine restaurant Lo Zibibbo  with a long and intense day of pre-Christmas cooking, I was left with this traditional recipe to share. Its worth mentioning that the preparation time is fairly lengthy,  but in saying that – the level of expertise required is actually not so high.The hardest part of the preparation is the deboning, which you might prefer to delegate to your butcher! Preparation of the broth, including the filling, tying and cooking processes requires around three hours. On top of  this is the 12 hours fridge time required to compact the cappone and give it the right form. The result however,makes an afternoon’s work well worth it!

PS: If you do a quick online search for chicken or cappone in aspic you will pull up some shocking atrocities, with recipes that instead of tying the cappone will recommend that you put it in a tube of oil! I’m curious to see the result if anyone has tried this technique … without the can of course!

Cappone Benedetta Vitali

The Broth

In a large saucepan filled with cold water add all the herbs: celery, carrots, tomatoes and parsley. Cook the onions on high heat, burning them slightly. Add cloves and cinnamon. Add the Veal leg, the beef bones and those of the cappone. Add salt and peppercorns that have been crushed with a meat pounder.
The Filling
With a sharp knife cut the flesh from the inside of the cappone breasts, which are in general quite big. Of this, a part will be ground  up along with other meat for the stuffing and some will be used to make cappelleti (in cappone broth, of course.)

Grind the breast meat together with sirloins of beef, pork fillets and sausage meat.
Meanwhile, mix the ground meat with a slice of mortadella cut into small cubes and add the bread crumbs soaked well in milk. Mix everything with a whole egg, parmesan reggiano cheese, a pinch of nutmeg, some pistachio nuts and slices of black truffle. Don’t forget the salt in the dough!

With toothpicks close the side of the tail. Stuff the cavity of the bird with the mixture from the side of the neck and shut the cavity, either by sewing it shut or using a skewer to bring the sides of the cut together.

Il Cappone

Place the ready cappone filled, tied wrapped on a napkin, and closed with string into the already boiling broth so that the temperature closes the cappone on the outside and it does not lose moisture. Let it cook for 35 minutes. Remove from the broth and allow to drain for about 1 / 2 hour. When the liquid is completely drained place the cappone on a baking sheet and put a weight on top that will compact it nicely. Leave overnight in the refrigerator with the weight on top.

The Jelly

Strain the broth, put it back in a steel pot and when it boils, pour in the  white of  a beaten egg constantly whisking it. The egg will thicken capturing all the impurities and residues of the broth, making it transparent and clear. Now remove the white with a skimmer. Wait for it to cool and keep it in refrigerator in small molds or containers that will allow you to cut it into cubes or slices as you like. The foot should ensure a good jelly which is necessary to serve the ‘Aspic of Cappone’, but if you want a more aesthetically appealing result in extremis add 3 sheets of gelatin soaked in cold water and squeeze for every liter of broth still hot.

When the Cappone is cold and compact, slice finely and garnish with  gelatin cubes. Before serving let the Cappone come down to room temperature. Decorate with some grated black truffle!

Ingredients:

  • 1 Whole Capon 3kg
  • 200g minced beef
  • 200g minced pork
  • 1 slice mortadella
  • 200ml Milk
  • 1 Italian Sausage Skinned
  • 8 slices Bread
  • 100g Grated Parmesan Reggiano
  • 1 Egg
  • 1/8 teaspoon Grated Nutmeg
  • 50 g toasted pistachio nuts
  • Salt and pepper
  • black truffle

For the Broth

1 Veal foot( broken in half)
Beef bones
1 kg meat cuts for soup
4 red onions
3 carrots, 3 sticks of celery, 3 cloves

Cinnamon stick

5/6 tomatoes

Parsley

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